Stewed Rhubarb Recipe
This is the recipe that accompanies Suzanna Crampton & Imen McDonnell’s recipe for Rhubarb Sheep’s Milk Ice Cream in the Spring 2014 issue. The leftover cooking liquid can be used to flavor lemonade, tea, or even just sparkling water. The liquid can also be reduced to a syrup consistency and then drizzled on top of the rhubarb ice cream. This recipe makes just enough for one batch of ice cream, but the recipe can easily be doubled or tripled.
Stewed Rhubarb
Makes 2/3 cup needed for ice cream recipe
1 ½ cups diced fresh rhubarb (about 4 large stalks)
1/3 cup sugar
¼ cup water
1. In a small saucepan set over low heat, combine the rhubarb, sugar, and water. Bring the mixture to a simmer, stirring gently, until the sugar has dissolved and the rhubarb has softened, about 10 minutes. Strain the rhubarb from the cooking liquid (reserving both separately). Allow the rhubarb to cool to room temperature and then store in a covered container in the refrigerator until ready to make the ice cream. Use the cooking liquid as noted above.
Photo by Hilary Kline.
Condiments for Mohinga (Photography by Mikka Tokuda-Hall)
These are the condiment recipes that are meant to be served with one or both of the mohinga recipes appearing with the “Culinary Kaleidoscope” feature in our Winter 2013-14 issue. The recipes are excerpted from Naomi Duguid’s latest book, “Burma: Rivers of Flavor” published in 2012 by Artisan Books.
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Basic Pie Dough
For our Tennessee issue, we turned to Dale Mackey, owner of Dale’s Fried Pies in Knoxville, Tenn. for a little inspiration and for her candied sweet potato fried pies. When making a fried hand pie, Dale reminds folks that the consistency of the dough should be a little bit “wetter” than regular pie dough. With regular pie dough you are just rolling it out once and you are done manipulating it, she says, but with a fried pie you are cutting it, folding it and crimping it. If the dough is erring on the side crumbly, it is going to be too hard to work with when trying to crimp it shut.
While Dale keeps her pie dough recipe a closely guarded state secret, we did manage to get the basic ingredients out of her, which means that you can use this basic double crust pie dough recipe to great success.
Basic Pie Dough
2 ¼ cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. sugar
1 ½ sticks cold unsalted butter
8 tbsp. cold water
1. Add the flour, salt, and sugar to the work bowl of a food processor. Process briefly to combine. Cut the butter into ½-inch pieces and add to the flour mixture. Using short on-off pulses, cut the butter into the flour mixture until the butter pieces are the size of small peas.
2. Add 3 tbsp. of the water to the bowl and pulse on and off again for 5 seconds. Add 3 more tbsp. water and, again, pulse on and off for another 5 seconds. Add the remaining 2 tbsp. water and pulse on and off for another few seconds. Remove the lid and pinch a piece the dough. It should hold together easily. (If it doesn’t, add another tbsp. of water and pulse to incorporate).
3. Turn the dough out onto a floured board and shape it into a solid ball. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least one hour before rolling out. Roll out the dough as directed in Dale’s recipe in our fall issue. Just be careful when frying.
Science and Food at UCLA with Chef Alex Atala
Professor Amy Rowat leads a popular undergraduate course titled “Science and Food: The Physical and Molecular Origins of What We Eat” for UCLA’s Life Sciences program. The class offers students the chance to learn the origins of food texture and flavor – i.e. why lettuce is crispy, or why different cuts of meat have different textures.
The class is punctuated with course lectures by highly regarded chefs and farmers from Los Angeles and beyond. This year, for example, Chef Jeremy Fox will be giving a class lecture entitled “The Art of Vegetable Texture” and Chef Michael Voltaggio will be lecturing on “Meat Texture and Elasticity.”
Accompanying the class each spring is an evening lecture series that is open to the general public. Similar to Harvard’s “Science and Cooking” lectures, this series is presented for nominal ticket prices with the intent of introducing food science to those outside of the program.
Just last week, Alex Atala, the chef and owner of D.O.M. in São Paulo, Brazil, kicked off the 2013 public lecture series with a discussion on the intersection of the primitive with the modern. Once described by Chef David Chang as more interesting than the Dos Equis Most Interesting Man in the Word, Atala is renowned for a devotion to regional cuisine using indigenous Brazilian ingredients.
Atala works closely with anthropologists and scientists to discover and classify new foods from the Amazonian region. Among his favorite discoveries are priprioca, a fragrant Amazonian root used in savory and sweet dishes, and a new variety of wild palm perfectly adapted for sustainable and environmentally sound farming, which he serves as fettuccine with butter, sage, and popcorn powder (see recipe below).
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This is our basic ravioli pasta recipe for use with the braised beef shank dish in the new spring issue. Unlike with heartier pastas, such as Ragu Bolognese, this recipe uses no semolina flour. We prefer an all-purpose flour recipe with this ravioli because it produces a more tender, yet still pliable pasta sheet
Basic Pasta Recipe
You may either mix the pasta using a fork and the traditional well method (in the photos above) or save a little bit of time by bringing the ingredients together in a stand mixer before turning out on a board to knead. No matter how you mix the ingredients, be prepared to knead the dough for 10 minutes to develop the necessary gluten that will hold the ravioli sheets together.
Makes approximately 1 ½ lbs.
3 cups all-purpose flour + more for kneading
6 large egg yolks
2 large eggs
1 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
3 tbsp. water
1. Add all of the ingredients to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment. Mix, starting on low speed, until the ingredients come together. You may need to scape down the sides of the bowl one or two times. The dough should start pulling off of the sides of the bowl when it is ready, but it will still be slightly sticky. If it is still loose after 2 minutes of mixing, add 1-2 more tbsp. of water to the bowl and mix again.
2. Lightly flour a wood board and turn out the dough onto the board. Start kneading the dough, folding it over on itself and pushing down firmly with the palm of your hand. Continue kneading for 10 minutes, adding more flour to the board as necessary to keep the dough from sticking. After 10 minutes, test the dough ball by pulling it gently apart. The dough should spring back toward its original shape. If it does not, knead for another few minutes. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
3. Set your pasta rollers to the widest setting. Cut the dough into four equal pieces, placing three of them under damp paper towels while you work with the fourth. Flatten the piece of dough into a relatively thin disk (about ¼ - 1/3 of an inch thick). Lightly dust both sides of the piece of dough and then roll it through the pasta machine, holding your hand underneath to keep the dough from tearing. Fold the dough over itself and repeat this step two times.
4. Set the rollers to the next narrowest setting and run the dough through twice without folding it again. Continue to run the dough through each progressively narrower setting two separate times until you reach the desired thickness. (We stopped at setting number 5 for this recipe.) Lay the pasta sheet out on a lightly floured surface and trim the edges of the pasta so that they are square. Cut, fill and seal the pasta as directed on the recipe you are using and then repeat with the remaining pieces of dough.